Learning how to make shellac finish is an easy and satisfying process. Making your own shellac feels like a natural extension of the do-it-yourself foundational personality of most woodturners.
Besides being easy to make, self-made shellac has many advantages over store-bought inferior versions of branded shellac.
Ease Of Making
The most time-consuming part of making your own shellac is ordering and waiting for all the ingredients needed to prepare the shellac.
Once you have developed the mix that is best suited for you and your wood bowl turning needs, making your own shellac is a quick and straightforward process.
Here’s a quick overview on how to make your own shellac:
- Place a clean empty container on a small scale and “zero out” the scale.
- Add shellac flakes to the desired proportional weight (see chart for details)
- Pour denatured (or pure grain) alcohol into the container also at the measured proportional amount.
- Stir, seal the container and allow the shellac flakes to fully dissolve.
It’s really that simple. Now let’s dive into all the details about making your our shellac.
Why Make Shellac?
After all, we could easily just go to the store and buy a can of prepared shellac, right? Well, we could, but we would be doing our beautiful wood turned bowls a disservice.
Branded and canned shellac finish has many additives that are used for various purposes. And unlike a consumable food product, canned shellac manufacturers do not need to spell out all the effects of those ingredients.
If you already have one of these canned shellacs, you might want to pour a little into a clear container and check its clarity. When you get done with this article and make your own shellac, you will see a dramatic difference!
I don’t know about you, but I don’t want to have some cloudy chemical-filled product spread all over the bowl I just fussed, finessed, and sanded into a piece of art.
Shellac Shelf life
Part of the reason all those chemicals are mixed into that branded and canned shellac cocktail is to make it last longer on the shelf.
The manufacturers naturally must balance between selling an acceptable product and time. The longer that product can sit on the shelf, the less waste and loss the company will have.
Once you know how to make your own shellac, you can make smaller fresh batches as needed and use the best shellac possibly available for your wooden bowls.
I mix enough shellac to last for a while, but not too long. It is advised to not use mixed shellac after it is three months old or older.
Shellac Uses For Wood Bowls
There are two main reasons I use shellac finish for my wood bowls.
The first purpose for using shellac for wood bowls is to seal and shore up loose end-grain and trouble areas.
Wood end grains on a wooden bowl can sometimes become problematic and punky. Frail fibers can resist being cut clean when turning problematic end-grain bowls.
One technique for dealing with troubled end grain is to lightly coat the bowl with a thin layer of shellac.
The shellac coats the weak, floppy end grain fibers and stands them up, which presents them with much better success to a sharpen bowl gouge.
Some say sanding sealer accomplishes the same thing. However, I’ve been told that sanding sealer has various elements added to it that can reduce the final coat clarity and is not as good as using shellac as a base coat.
If you are having issues with end-grain tear out, read this article I have explicitly prepared about the end-grain tear out topic.
The High Gloss Base Layer
The other purpose for using shellac is to create an initial base coat for a wood bowl that will have a high-gloss final finish.
High-gloss finishes are essentially created by making the wood surface smooth and more reflective.
A thin layer of shellac applied to a wood bowl after the final sanding (usually at least 320 to 400 grit) is complete is a great start to a high-gloss finish.
That initial coat of shellac penetrates the wood fibers and creates the foundation for additional layers to be applied to further increase the bowl’s reflectivity and make a high-gloss finish.
Once the base coat of shellac finish, which I merely brush on smooth and evenly, is dry, I lightly sand the surface with 0000 steel wool.
With the shellac dried and smoothed with the steel wool, I begin applying thin layers of lacquer to make a beautiful final gloss finish.
You might be surprised how easy it is to set up a lacquer spray system in your shop. Check out this article to learn exactly how to set a lacquer spray system.
Food Safe and Non-Toxic
If you only saw all the cans of shellac finish on the shelves of a hardware store, you might assume that shellac is some kind of toxic liquid chemical.
Natural shellac is not toxic at all. Those cans on the shelf at the store may contain additional toxic elements, but the base ingredient, shellac, comes from nature.
If you do a little investigating, you will discover that shellac is used to add a shiny coat to everything from medicine to candy.
Shellac is edible and safe to consume. It can be used on wood bowls that will be in contact with food without any worries of toxicity or health safety.
If you are looking for “food safe” finishes good for salad bowls, beware that the generic name “Salad Bowl Finish” does not necessarily mean what you think it does. Read this article to learn about food safe salad bowl finish.
What is Shellac?
The shellac we are referring to here is a spreadable and applicable mix of natural shellac dissolved in denatured alcohol. That mixed shellac we are all familiar with starts out far away in a different form.
OK, here comes the cool and crazy part. Shellac comes from the excretions of the lac bug. The female lac bug which resides in a variety of trees in India and Southern Asia consumes and processes tree resin.
As the bugs, which can swarm trees in mass, process the resin of the tree, they form tube-like trails behind them on the outside of the tree bark. These lac bug trails are the raw form of shellac.
The lac bug is the only, currently known, animal to create a commercially usable resin. This shellac resin is actually a natural polymer.
The long resin trails left behind by the lac bug are gathered and processed. Heat is used to liquefy the resin and filter out the bark and other impurities.
Once the shellac has been filtered, it is spread out to cool in sheets, which are then turned into sugar crystal-like flakes or beaded into pellets for easy distribution.
In the flake or bead form, shellac, especially sealed and refrigerated, can last a very long time.
Types of Shellac
There are various colors or shades of shellac flakes that can be purchased ranging from almost clear blond to amber/orange to dark garnet brownish/red colors.
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The color of the shellac depends on which tree the lac bug is munching on for lunch. Yes, that may seem gross, but that’s what it is. Ha!
I use the clearer shellac for my wood bowls. I find it does not change the color of most woods dramatically.
Some woods will appear a bit more golden with an application of even the clearest shellac. Again, it all depends on the particular type of wood species at play.
Materials Needed To Make Your Own Shellac
• shellac flakes
• high-grade denatured alcohol
• clean glass jar
• digital scale
Shellac Flakes
Only a few components are needed to create shellac. Let’s start with the shellac itself. I prefer to use shellac flakes because they are easy to handle, store and dissolve quickly.
When purchasing shellac flakes, you only need to select the desired color and amount of flakes you’d like to have on hand.
I have several options for shellac flakes listed in my recommended source guide for wood finishes, check them out.
Denatured Alcohol
Denatured alcohol is essentially ethanol that has been treated to make it non-consumable. This is done to make the product price reasonable for woodworking and other uses and not taxed as an alcoholic beverage.
190 proof denatured alcohol is supposed to be the best for dissolving shellac flakes. I have used locally purchased denatured alcohol with good results.
How To Mix Your Own Shellac
Using a good quality digital scale, like this one place a small container on the scale and zero out the scale. The scale should read 0.00 with the container in place.
Place shellac flakes in the container to match the cut mix ratio desired, see the chart below. More on this in a minute.
With the correct amount of flakes in the container, transfer the shellac flakes to a clean glass jar which has a tight fitting lid.
Now neutral out the container again on the scale and measure the amount of denatured alcohol needed to complete the mix cut ratio. Add the denatured alcohol to the glass jar containing the measured shellac flakes.
Mix the flakes and let them sit. It may take about a day for the shellac to completely dissolve in the denatured alcohol. Now the shellac is ready for application.
I take a magic marker and write the date and cut strength of the shellac mix on the lid. This helps me know how thick the shellac mix is and if it is more than three months old.
It’s really that simple.
Shellac Potency
Shellac can be made thin or thicker depending on your use.
I use a thin version of shellac for most of my wood bowl applications.
Thinner shellac is good at quickly soaking into the wood fibers and making an excellent initial gloss coat layer or to strengthen fibers to alleviate end-grain wood issues.
Also, thinner shellac mixes dry very quickly after being applied, almost as fast as it takes for the alcohol to evaporate.
The cut I prefer is a one-pound cut. Personally, I don’t like this terminology. It feels like I’m making batches of some illegal drug or something. Cue the “Breaking Bad” soundtrack. Ha!
Thicker versions of shellac cuts have corresponding higher amounts of dry shellac flakes. These higher cut ratio mixes will result in shellac that is thicker and takes a bit longer to dry.
Shellac Cut Chart Mix
Here is a detailed chart for calculating the right cut ratio size for a variety of shellac batch sizes.
Note that a one-pound cut shellac batch is one gallon of denatured alcohol to one pound of shellac flakes. All calculations expand or contract from that mix ratio.
Like I mentioned above, I never make large batches, instead I usually only mix a cup or two at a time. Mix what you need and will consume within the next three months, to prevent wasting mixed shellac to spoilage.
| Denatured Alcohol | 1 lb. Cut | 1.5 lb. Cut | 2 lb. Cut | 2.5 lb. Cut | 3 lb. Cut |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 128 fl. oz. One Gallon | 16 oz. 1 lb. Flakes | 24 oz. 1.5 lb. Flakes | 32 oz. 2 lb. Flakes | 40 oz. 2.5 lb. Flakes | 48 oz. 3 lb. Flakes |
| 64 fl. oz. Half Gallon | 8 oz. 1/2 lb. Flakes | 12 oz. 3/4 lb. Flakes | 16 oz. 1 lb. Flakes | 20 oz. 1-1/4 lb. Flakes | 24 oz. 1-1/2 lb. Flakes |
| 32 fl. oz. One Quart | 4 oz. 1/4 lb. Flakes | 6 oz. 1/3 lb. Flakes | 8 oz. 1/2 lb. Flakes | 10 oz. 5/8 lb. Flakes | 12 oz. 3/4 lb. Flakes |
| 16 fl. oz. One Pint | 2 oz. 1/8 lb. Flakes | 3 oz. 3/16 lb. Flakes | 4 oz. 1/4 lb. Flakes | 5 oz. 5/16 lb. Flakes | 6 oz. 1/3 lb. Flakes |
| 8 fl. oz. One Cup | 1 oz. 1/16 lb. Flakes | 1.5 oz. 3/32 lb. Flakes | 2oz. 1/8 lb. Flakes | 2.5 oz. 5/32 lb. Flakes | 3 oz. 3/16 lb. Flakes |
Filter the Product
It depends on the quality of the shellac flakes or beads used, some particulates may still be in the dissolved shellac mix.
Use a piece of cheesecloth or a portion of old clean t-shirt and filter the shellac before applying to a finished wood turned bowl.
What Goes Around
It’s pretty crazy to think about, but if we back up and look at the big picture, we’re using processed resin from a tree to protect, enhance, and beautify our wood turned bowls all thanks to a bug.
Trees hold so many amazing secrets that our limited brains can only begin to scratch the surface of comprehension.
Knowing that we don’t know much about trees makes me that much more determined to only turn naturally felled trees or downed trees that are going to be disposed of in non-natural ways, like being mulched or burnt.
Besides all the obvious known benefits that living trees provide around use, what is still unknown? Are there bugs in our own backyards that consume and process trees in other ways, like the lac bugs.
Could processes be happening in trees right now that can potentially benefit every human worldwide?
Who knows what is happening in all the trees with all the bugs and animals? No one, that’s who.
We only have the chance of gaining new knowledge and benefits from trees if we do our best to protect and preserve these amazing creatures that grow and live silently among us.
What goes around, comes around.
Make Your Own Shellac Conclusion
Mixing shellac at home is relatively easy, straightforward, natural and a much better alternative to chemically-enhanced alternatives canned at the store.
I believe, once you’ve learned how to create shellac and mix your own batches, you will see the difference.
Hold up a batch of your mixed shellac and compare it to one of the store-bought shellac varieties. There is no comparison.
Keep some naturally made shellac flakes in your refrigerator and you will be ready to make a fresh batch of shellac whenever you like, now that you know the process to make shellac.
Here are some other great finishing articles:
• MY FAVORITE FOOD SAFE WOOD FINISH – WATERPROOF ALMOST
• SALAD BOWL FINISH – FOOD SAFE? SURPRISE – 3 SAFE OPTIONS
• BOWL SANDING TOOLS AND FINISH TECHNIQUES – WOOD BOWLS
• 5 MAGICAL EBONIZING WOOD TRICKS
• 3 AMAZING TURQUOISE INLAY TECHNIQUES – ILLUSTRATED GUIDE
Happy Turning (and Finishing),
Kent
63 Responses
Kent, how would shellac cut, say 1/2 lb, work instead of a wood hardener to dry out and stabilize some slightly punkier pieces prior to turning? I’m looking for a less expensive alternative to the $100+/gallon stuff.
Dan,
Thank you for writing and sharing! Good question. That could work to a degree. It will depend on how “bad” the wood is. If it’s super fragile, it might not, but if the surface is a little loose and flaky, it might work. Experiment and find out.
Happy Turning!
Kent
In the OB Shine Juce recipe it calls for the Bullseye shellac that has wax in it. Can you substitute the de waxed flakes and sucsesfully make your own shellac for that recipe?
Mark,
Yes, you can use this recipe. Be sure to start with dewaxed shellac flakes.
Happy Turning!
Hi Kent, I’ve read your article on making food safe shellac and seen a few videos. One during a course I believe about how hard it is to get 100% 200 proof ethanol. This link is to a manufacturer that has this available https://american-ethanol.com/ called Ethanol 200 maybe this has already been covered but I thought I would add in. This is food safe, not denatured with other ingredients to make it un-drinkable, your link to Amazon is the same company but that is the denatured variant. It works great for shellac making.
Excellent, Thank you for writing and sharing! That link is now updated. Happy Turning!
Hi Kent.
I turn mostly utilitarian bowls. I use T&T frequently but feel like it doesn’t seal the wood well since such a thin coat is applied- especially on very porous woods like red oak, hickory, pecan, etc.
Wondering what your thoughts are on using shellac as a primary coat(s) underneath the T&T to serve as a “sealer”. Do you think the shellac would perform OK on the bowls with normal use (occasional hand washing, having foods like salads sitting in it for long periods during a party for example)? My fear is that the shellac would flake, similar to how lacquer behaves if exposed to water for extended periods.
What are your thoughts on this proposed process?
Mike,
The Tried and True works great on its own, but you can also apply shellac under as a base, especially for porous woods. I use a thin 1lb. cut of shellac that soaks into the wood well. I have never seen any flaking of shellac after being applied. I guess if you applied a very thick shellac it would sit on the surface and could flake, but you don’t want that. And I don’t intend for the shellac to be the final finish. It only seals up pores and can tighten end grain fibers. I have used that technique under T&T, but especially under lacquer. It helps the lacquer quickly establish a flat, smooth, shiny finish much quicker compared to just applying lacquer alone.
Hope that helps.
Happy Turning!
Kent
Thanks Kent.
I’ll give it a shot and see if its worth the added effort
Mike,
Yes, enjoy and Happy Turning!
Kent
Tips –
Use Everclear instead of DNA, because DNA fumes are awful for you and Everclear is edible.
Use a coffee grinder on the shellac flakes
Leave the mason jar on a rock tumbler to get the final mix quickly.
Sounds good. Thanks for sharing!
Am I correct that shellac would not be appropriate under an oil finish like pure tung oil?
Larry,
Good question. I’m not 100% certain. I have seen shellac used under an oil finish.
I think the oil penetrates the wood, so I’m not sure the shellac interferes with that process. We need to talk to a chemist or other specialist.
Happy Turning!
Kent
Hi Ken, Just starting to turn and would like to use a shellac finish but when I look to make an order I see the word waxed shellac. Your presentation you do not mention wax shellac. What is the difference between the two. Which one should I use? Thanks, Ron.
Ron,
I do believe you want dewaxed flakes. Shellac is extracted from bugs on certain trees in Asia. I guess that tree has other waxes that interfere with the shellac process. Just my guess. Here’s a link for dewaxed flakes https://amzn.to/3W6vmFr
Happy Turning!
Kent
You want dewaxed shellac as a base so if you are to put on a finish coat, such as a water based poly, there will not be adherence issues, due to the wax in the shellac. I have not found dewaxed shellac at any home improvement stores, Mail or internet stores is the only source I have found for dewaxed shellac.
Ray,
That is correct, dewaxed shellac flakes is what you want. That’s why I make my own.
All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Kent
Thank
Hi Kent
I am just starting to learn about wood turning and I am thoroughly enjoying your videos.
I would like to try and make my own shellac but could not find the link that you mentioned in your video on where to purchase the shellac flakes. Could you please help me on where to purchase that material. Thanks
Tom,
Sure, glad to help. Here’s a link https://turnawoodbowl.com/recommended-equipment/recommended-finishing-supplies/#gloss
Happy Turning!
Kent
Thank you for the very informative tutorial on Food Safe Shellac. I’ve been trying to find a way to protect my new butcher block kitchen counter tops. It’s going in an Airbnb! Do you think the food safe recipe that you shared would work? I’d be happy to put several thin coats like you showed. What are your thoughts? I also want to do the same on a vintage sewing cabinet that I’m using in the bathroom. I need to waterproof it. Do you think your recipe will work as well? I sanded it down and keeping it natural, bare wood. I really want to thank you again for the video you shared!
Valerie,
Yes, the shellac will work great for your needs. You might also consider spraying lacquer after the shellac coats. As for “waterproofing”, I don’t think this will work. If you want a water-resistant finish this is ok, but to be truly waterproof you need to completely seal all the wood (inside and out) with a product like resin. Hope this helps.
Happy Turning!
Kent
Hi Kent,
How would you finish a bowl that might get wet from time to time? If I use shellac to help support end grain, then finish with Tried and True will that work?
George,
Great question. When you say wet, do you mean from being hand-washed in the sink? If so, Tried and True Original is what I use on all my salad bowls. If you are thinking “very wet” like left outside in the rain, then perhaps a two-part epoxy, similar to a boat finish.
All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Kent, your videos and explanations are superb and your site and videos are a constant source of help thank you.
I am dealing with end grain issues and wonder if using your Shellac trick to seal end grain will impact the adhesion or absorption of stains or other finishes e.g. the Tried and True Original Finish that you demonstrated I might like to add to finish my bowls?
Also you burnish the Tried and True Finish by re-chucking the bowl in the tenon you created in the original pieces. Once you remove the tenon do you just then redo the Bowl Base/Bottom with the Tried and True product? I assume I can remove the tenon before I do any finishing and once the Tried and True is applied and cured etc. I can buff or burnish the bowl with my buffing wheel process.
Brian,
You are probably right about the shellac interfering with the staining process. I don’t stain my bowl. You might want to try light scraping with a round nose scraper, see my article, in order to clean up the end grains.
If I don’t have the tenon to rechuck the bowl, I just wipe down the T&T by hand. Takes a bit longer than with the lathe, but same results.
Happy Turning!
Kent,one of my friends is a chemical engineer and was in my shop when i was making some shellac. also, i was cleaning some sawdust off of a bowl. in both cases i was using denatured alcohol. my friend clucked in disapproval as only an engineer can at my use of denatured alcohol as opposed to 90% rubbing alcohol. he said that the additives that made alcohol poison and foul tasting would also remain in the wood and could alter the wood and finish in a bad way. he said he would recommend not using denatured alcohol and only use 90% alcohol. fyi, jim
Jim,
I know that engineer clucking sounding you mentioned. lol. Yes, you can use other alcohols, including high-proof clear liquor as well. I have not seen any of the results mentioned, but you can error on the side of caution if you’d like. Actually, I bigger issue is the composition of denatured alcohol is being changed by adding oil and it is being labeled as “stove fuel.” Now, the oil in the mix will probably cause issues with shellac. So get some moonshine and all will be fine. 😉 Happy Turning!
I absolutely love your videos and appreciate you contributing to the wood turning community. In California denatured alcohol has been banned. Can I substitute Isopropyl alcohol?
Thank you and that’s good to know about the iso alcohol.
All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Kent,
I just came across your site and have to applaud you. Your explanations and presentation are fantastic. Thank you.
To help the last questioner (as a fellow Californian) I’d like to submit: I buy both 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and A 200 proof Ethyl Alcohol with as few added ingredients (other than some Isopropyl alcohol) as possible. I’m basically trying to find the highest concentration of 200 Proof alcohol for mixing my own cuts of Shellac. If there are any additives I want to make sure they’re Anhydrous, or dry. Some mixtures include ingredients that contain Distilled Water which interferes with the shellac in a variety of ways, e.g., causing “blush” or cloudiness to the otherwise crystal clear Shellac (if I’m using a Platina, such as the one you mix in your video… great stuff).
Thanks again!
Jimmy,
Thank you for your kind words!!!
And thanks for the California details on the shellac and alcohol.
All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Kent
Hi there – I stumbled upon your website while searching for toxic free finishes. Will this work over a chalk-painted crib? And is it okay for baby? Thank you!
While I want to say yes to both, I’m not 100% sure. Experiment with the chalk paint first and check other sites for being baby safe. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Hello Kent. I am a beginner and love watching and learning from your videos!
I am going to make my own shellac per your directions and I am curious….why do you refer to “cut” ratio when mixing the flakes with denatured alcohol? Why not just Shellac Mix Ratios? I ask because I think I must be missing something by virtue of the word cut.
Thank you,
Jim
Good question. If you make a thinner cut, the shellac will soak down into end grain better. Thicker cuts will sit more on the top of the wood surface, more like a film. Hope that helps. Happy Turning!
Hi!!
Do you know if this Shellack is like a glue? .
Music instruments, like a Sax have a pads and another solid shellack is use for this.
Yes, it has an adhesive property.
Hi Kent,
I make a polish out of Beeswax and Cannabises (?) wax. I have used mineral oil and walnut oil to make a softer wax for applying.
If I make the shellac and use it instead of the mineral oil will it make the wax soft for applying?
Also I see where I can get powdered shellac and was wondering if this will work the same.
Thank you for your videos and emails. In this day and time you are about my only outside contact 🙂
Roy
Roy,
Good question.
I do not know what that combo would create. I say try it out and see what you think.
I have not used the powdered shellac, but I’m guessing it’s the shellac flakes ground down. It should work fine, just make sure it is pure shellac with no additives.
All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Thank you for this. I made a batch of garnet, 1.5lb cut. Really liked it and it was a very nice finish. I have some amber flakes coming and looking forward to trying that one also. I may play with combination of garnet and amber. I really appreciate the vast amount of information you make available to all of us….truly is a goldmine of knowledge!!
Thank you kindly, Trey! Glad you like the shellac!
Happy Turning!
Wonderful article. Thank you.
I am having difficulty obtaining a really smooth glossy surface on smooth flat wood. It seems to leave hints of brushstrokes. Any tips on smooth application?
Thanks and yes, spray. Read this article for all the details. https://turnawoodbowl.com/spray-lacquer-illustrated-guide-equipment-system-set-up-technique/
Here in Canda it is dufficult to find denatured alcohol , is it true that methyl hydrate is the same thing and is it also safe to use
Kevin,
Yes, the two are one and the same.
Thanks,
Kent
Hi Kevin,
This reply is late, but methyl hydrate is not the same as denatured alcohol. Denatured alcohol is Ethanol that has additives so we won’t drink it (without paying taxes) – it is the same alcohol as in wine and whiskey that we drink. Methyl hydrate is a different name for methanol (sometimes called wood alcohol) and you don’t want to drink it because it will make you blind – and you should keep it off your skin because it can poison you through your skin. I used to work in a plant where we produced methanol.
I live in Canada too, and the only good solution I’ve found is the ‘e-nrg’ from Canadian Tire which says it’s “Bioethanol”. I think I read on their site it has some isopropyl alcohol in it as well, so not pure ethanol but it seems to work well for mixing shellac
Kevin,
Thank you for writing and sharing!
Good info, and I think that will help others better understand this issue as well.
Thanks again and Happy Turning!
Kent
Kent.its very nice on what you do.in the hay days of my life I used lacquer.had real good results and its also self leveling.
But that being said you can’t a a ay spay lacquer all the time.
But shellac is a better choice i was using ob shine it ok but not getting the Wow effected may be its the boiled linseed oil it didn’t work best for me.so I slicked to store shellac and cutting it that seem to work.
But after seeing you videos and chart I think it time to mix my own.i used to see my dad mix it to refinish a dinning room table and it looked amazing. I turn pepper mills and bowls.and salt water fishing plugs..I will give it a try. How will it hold up to saltwater environment on my plugs.matt
Matt,
Definitely, give it a try. I’m not sure about saltwater, but that too is worth experimenting with.
All the best to you.
Happy Turning!
I am used to thinning shop bought shellac down with methylated spirit, is there a problem using meths?
No problem at all, it is essentially the same product with a different name. Thanks for asking.
Can this be used on Rubberwood cutting boards? is it safe for cutting surfaces? Thank you!
I believe it should be safe for your cutting board. You might want to mix the shellac flakes with 190 proof drinking alcohol just to be sure. Some people believe the denatured alcohol can leave some residue.
Kent, I’m looking for the note on where to purchase the shellac flakes. I’m interested in making my own shellac finish. Thank you.
Jim,
You can find them in my Resources Guide here’s a link
https://turnawoodbowl.com/recommended-equipment/recommended-finishing-supplies/
Water and alcohol dyes work great in shellac. I’ve used them on and off for years they are much better at letting the grain show through than common wood stains. Wood stains are basically paint and all of them are applied the same way. Water and alcohol based dyes penetrate into the wood and remain much more clear and transparent leaving no residue on the surface. Yes mixing the stain powder with alcohol first does help with mixing but if you have a light mix such as a one pound cut shellac it will mix right in. Go slowly, a little goes a long way. Sample boards are a good way to go and will save you a lot of grief. Mix your color and apply a small amount to a scrap piece, preferably from the same piece of lumber that your turning was made from which will give you a good idea of what it will look like on the finished product. Oh, and be sure to have sanded the piece to the same finish as your project it won’t be the same if it’s not. There are also premixed dyes that are ready for use in dropper type bottles. Both types of dyes are available from places like Rockler and Woodcraft and I’m sure there are more out there. Amazon, maybe? I’ve not checked there.
Garry,
Thank you for this detailed information. Much appreciated!
You mentioned in your ebonizing article that Speedball ink is mixed with shellac- have you ever tried mixing alcohol based dyes with shellac? If so, what was the effect?
Hello Kerry,
Thanks for the question.
I have not tried mixing alcohol dyes with shellac, but there’s no reason they wouldn’t work that I can imagine.
For some reason, I recall someone making a similar color dye mix and they suggested mixing the dye with the alcohol first before mixing with the shellac. That might be worth a try.
If you do this, please let us know how it works out.
Thanks again and Happy Turning,
Kent
Do you sell a book on riding the bevel for turning wood bowls. I would like to purchase one if you do
At this time I do not have a book about riding the bevel. However, have you read this article of mine, which covers riding the bevel in great detail?