Spalting and Spalted Wood Bowls

Spalted Wood Bowl Turning Spalting

Spalt or spalting is probably the most exciting characteristic and beautiful visual effect you can find in any wood bowl blank.

When people hear the word “spalt” for the first time, they often turn their heads to the side a bit and ask, what did you say?”

What is Spalting?

Spalting is somewhat graphic or colorful markings composted of mineral deposits left by fungi found in aged or decaying wood.

Spalt markings inside wood are evidence of the presence of fungi that has moved through and consumed sugars within the wood fibers.

In this article, we will explore:

  • What is spalting
  • The history of spalted wood
  • Different types of spalt
  • Finding spalted wood
  • How to make your own spalted wood
  • Myths About Spalt
  • Adverse Effects of Turning Spalted Wood
  • Is Spalt Dangerous?
  • Age and Usefulness of Spalted Wood
  • How to best turn spalted wood

What Spalting is Not

Spalting is not a mold or other undesired “growth.”

Colors that appear in wood, especially right after a living tree has been cut, are not usually spalt.

Naturally appearing colors in the wood are, in most cases, the tree converting sugar into a defensive substance to fight disease and predators to prevent injury.

Tree defenses can be as simple as offensive smells to divert interested parties, all the way up to toxins designed to disable invaders.

Some of these defenses show up as colors or streaks in the wood grain.

The pink, red color of Box Elder wood, for example, is not spalting. Also, most trees produced colorations fade over time, including the pink of box elder.

Spalt Longevity

The tree produced colorations are typically water-based and will dissolve or fade over time.

Because spalt is comprised of minerals manipulated and moved around by fungi, and not water-based, spalt is one of the longest-lasting colorations found in wood.

Black zone lines and other colored spalting rarely fade or change over time.

Battle Black Zone Lines

The most graphic of all spalt is the black zone line spalting.

Black zone line spalt looks like a fine-tip ink pen has been used to cover the wood with wandering lines of graffiti.

At first glance, it’s easy to think of the black zone line as the path or trail of the fungus. However, this is not believed to be the case.

A black zone line is the confrontational meeting point or boundary between two different types of fungus.

If we could see through a microscope at a cellular level, masses of fungus blobs move forward and butt heads with other different blobs of fungus. Where they meet a black line, kind of like a fence or border is formed.

Black Zone Line and White Rot Spalt

Understanding Spalt and Fungus Better

Spalt is only part of fungus’ very elaborate role in the complete life-cycle of trees.

When a tree falls or stops growing, the fungus enters the cells of the wood and consumes sugars and other elements to ensure the fungus survival and start the decaying process of the tree.

But the fungus is not just there to “eat” the tree.

Fungi works symbiotically throughout the entire life of the tree.

Much like bacteria and microorganisms live on us by the trillions in a delicate happy, balanced harmony that helps keep us alive, well, until there is an imbalance.

We are only just now starting to understand the enormous role fungus plays in sustaining, possibly the entire world. I know that might sound extreme, but it is true.

Most of us think of the iconic wide-brimmed mushroom as the limit of fungus.

Mushroom Fungi Network Below

But, what we see in each mushroom on the ground level perhaps only represents an infinitely small proportion of the total fungal network, probably in the neighborhood of less than one-trillionth.

If you get a chance to read The Hidden Life of Trees by Peter Wohlleben you will discover some fantastic insights.

Did you know trees do not process minerals on their own? And without a vast mineral-processing fungal network within a tree’s root system, or possibly within the entire tree, trees would only be able to grow a few feet tall and then flop over like blades of grass.

If you are even mildly interested in trees, read The Hidden Life of Trees, and it will blow you away.

Is Decaying Wood Good To Turn?

I can hear what you’re thinking. I thought the same thing at first.

Wait, do I want to turn decaying wood? Won’t it just rot away?”

Here’s the cool thing. By turning a bowl from spalted wood, you stop the decaying process.

Exposing the wood to oxygen stops the whole breakdown process and freezes the fungus in its tracks.

Many times, the fungus has already “left the building,” or log, long before you decide to turn it.

Mushroom on Log Indicates Spalt

Different Types of Spalting

There are many different types of spalting around the world.

The most common spalting to find in North America is black zone spalt and white rot spalt. Other spalts are not as common as black zone and white rot.

Black zone spalting is easily noticed and very graphic. Black zone spalt can change a boring monotone piece of wood into a tapestry of beautiful interlocking line art.

White rot spalting can appear distinct on some types of wood and be almost invisible on others. White rot spalt isn’t as bold as black line spalt.

Black Zone Line White Rot Orange Spalt Spalting

Beyond the black zone and white rot spalting, there are numerous different colors and patterns of spalt created by various types of fungi.

South American spalting is off the chart with all kinds of colors and patterns that can appear almost surreal.

History of Spalt and Spalting

Spalted wood has been used for centuries around the world by craftsmen and woodworkers.

During the Renaissance, wood with spalted features was used to make veneers that were applied to furniture, cabinetry, and even cut into individual shapes to create elaborate murals.

Spalting in North American craftsmanship was pretty much a lost art until the late 1960s when Melvin and Mark Lindquist began using spalted wood to produce amazing turned projects.

David Ellsworth discovered the technique of spalting as well in the 1970s and began incorporating spalted wood in his icon hollow forms.

You may want to read “7 Things I Learned From David Ellsworth” next.

For an extensively detailed history of spalting, read Spalted Wood by Sara Robinson. Sara is the premier expert on spalted wood, and her book covers everything you can imagine about spalting.

Finding Spalted Wood

So, enough talk about what spalting is and its history, let’s get our hands on some spalted wood.

How do I find spalted wood?

Great question. Downed trees or logs that have been left untouched for usually at least a few months may have spalt inside.

Look at the end-grain of a log for lines or splotches that look like stains. You may need to cut off a clean area at the end of a log to see better.

Another great way to find spalting is to look for fungus or mushrooms sticking out of the wood.

Finding Spalt Mushroom Fungus indicator

After the fungi consume the sugars in the tree, it “fruits” in the form of mushrooms.

Think of mushrooms as spore vehicles or a fungi transport system.

If you want to make your spalt, which we will cover next, keep an eye out for mushrooms or fungus attached to downed wood.

The best way to get your own local spalt-producing fungus is to go for a walk in the woods.

Look for downed trees with mushrooms on the outside and collect a few in a plastic zip-lock baggie.

Be careful while collecting because some mushrooms and fungi can be harmful.

I’m not pretending to know everything about mushrooms in this article. So, use caution and don’t consume wild mushrooms without proper knowledge nor inhale spores when collecting.

Protective gloves, while handling the mushrooms, are a good idea.

A great simple and common fungus to look for is “Turkeytail.”
I have had great luck using Turkeytail mushroom to produce spalt.

Turkeytail Mushroom on Log

How to Grow or Encourage Spalt the Easy Way

You basically need two things to encourage the production of spalt in cut wood.

Moisture and the presence of fungi are critical to forming spalt.

I must say I’m very blessed to live in a location that has plenty of rain and humidity, as well as year-round warmth. Spalt promotion for me is effortless, I just have to wait a little while. 😉

I’m going to share what works for me. You may need to take additional steps, which we will cover shortly.

To encourage spalt growth, I cut round logs longer than I need for bowl blanks and stand them on end on the ground.

I believe that contact with the ground is beneficial, but this may not be necessary. The fungus may already be in the wood and not introduced via the ground contact.

An alternative possibility is the moisture coming from the ground may also help the spalting process.

Once the wood is outside and in the elements, I wait.

Like everything else in woodworking, every tree species is different. But, usually, between three to six months, spalting will begin to appear.

If you live in a dry clime, you will need to make sure your woodpile stays moist continually.

A canvas painter’s drop cloth can be used to cover a large woodpile or a large plastic tote can be used for a smaller stash of wood.

The breathable canvas cloth is better than a plastic cover that can promote mold growth. Also, if you use a plastic tote, make holes in the lid, or loosely attach the lid, so it too can breathe.

Contained wood will probably need to have fungus introduced before spalt will develop.

Collect local mushrooms from rotted logs or leave a few logs out back in the weather. Eventually, you will probably find spalt inside these exposed logs.

Introduce a few crushed up mushrooms or even a few cut off pieces of collected spalted logs to your new fresh pile and make sure it stays moist.

That’s it.

Advanced Ways to Grow Spalt

If you want to get technical and create different specific types on spalting, I suggest getting Sara Robinson’s Spalted Wood book.

Sara details exact scientific ways of controlling spalt, usually in small batches of contained wood samples.

While I admire Sara’s dedication, I just want to turn wood bowls. The level of attention to detail needed to create some of the spalts she describes is overwhelming to me.

But if you want to try to create a pink or turquoise spalt, she has the answers and even the spalting specimens for sale.

Myths About Spalt

If you dig around online about spalting, there are many myths.

The biggest myth about spalting is you need to feed it to make it grow. This is NOT true!

Actually, feeding spalt will usually have the opposite effect and not promote spalt growth.

Many people claim you need to add yeast, food scraps, or pour a beer over the wood to get the spalt to form. Not the case.

Adding “food” for spalt defeats the whole natural fungi-cycle.

When a tree dies, the symbiotic balance between the tree and the fungi stops. At that point, fungi begin to consume the sugars in the wood.

If new “foods” such as yeast or beer are added, the fungi will consume those instead of the natural sugars in the wood.

Another myth about spalt is peeing on the wood.

Yeah, that’s not true either.

Peeing on the wood is kinda funny, but it does nothing to aid the spalting process, except perhaps adding moisture. LOL

Randomness and Location of Spalt

Spalt forms randomly inside a piece of wood based on many conditions.

Every species of tree is different and can appear different when spalt is present. Some tree species show spalt from the pith to the bark, while others may only have spalt in the outer sapwood.

Spalted Wood Bowls Example

When turning wood that only has spalt in one area or another is can be beneficial to orient your bowl blank to best showcase the spalt.

Read this article next that describes in detail How to Best Orient Wood to get the best bowl blanks for turning.

If you have a log with spalt only in the sapwood, it might be best to orient a bowl with the rim located along the cut log half.

However, if the spalting appears throughout the bowl blank, especially near the pith, a natural edge bowl can then highlight that spalt in the base of the bowl.

Age and Usefulness of Spalted Wood

In general, once a piece of wood has a desired amount of spalt, turn the wood as soon as possible.

If a spalted log is left for an extended period, all the other decaying forces will work to thoroughly break down the wood fibers until the piece is useless for turning.

It is best to process a large pile of spalted wood into turned and round bowl blanks to open the wood, which presents oxygen and stops the rot.

Check out this article to learn all about twice turning bowl blanks.

Once the majority of the bowl blank has been cut and shaped, the spalting and rotting process with slow dramatically.

When a bowl is rough turned or final turned with wood finish, the decaying process, if not too far along, will come to a complete stop.

Adverse Effects of Turning Spalted Wood

Bowl Gouge Wear Due To Spalt

Because spalt is comprised of mineral deposits, it is much harder than wood.

Even in the tiny lines of black zone spalt, there is enough mineral material to wear down a bowl gouge edge much faster than usual.

Expect your bowl gouge to dull faster when turning spalted wood and remember to sharpen your gouge more frequently.

Different Wood Density

Also, because the mineral deposit found in spalt is much harder than the wood fibers, the gouge will cut unevenly.

As the bowl rotates, the gouge is cutting softwood fibers, then hard mineral areas, and back and forth.

It is common to hear a clicking sound or chattering when turning spalted wood because of the different densities between the spalt and the wood.

To make smooth cutting passes, apply downward pressure to the tool rest and do not press the gouge into the bowl blank. Make fluid motions focused on the tool rest downward pressure and let the wood come to the gouge tip.

Is Spalt Dangerous?

This question does come up from time to time…

Is working with spalted wood dangerous?

Some people like to say you have to wear a special respirator and take extra precautions while working with spalted wood.

I checked with spalting expert Sara Robinson and she explained that spalted wood does not present any dangers, and working with regular wood dust is far more threatening.

Actually wood dust is more likely to do long-term damage to unprotected lungs than any spalt can ever do.

Again, most spalt is composed of mineral debris left behind by fungi. Minerals are part of everyday life for us.

Is it possible to have toxic fungi still present in a piece of wood?

Sure, I guess it is possible, just like anything is possible. But it is unlikely.

Spalted Woodturning Bowls

Spalting Wood Conclusion

There is probably no other natural characteristic of wood that will generate more attention and compliments than spalting.

Hopefully, this article helps you to understand this odd natural wonder a bit better and encourages you to try your hand at turning some spalted wood.

If you have a pile of wood waiting to be turned, check it for spalt. And if you don’t find any spalt, consider introducing it yourself.

Let me know what you think about spalted wood by leaving a comment below.

Check out these other articles about bowl blanks and turning:

Happy Turning,

30 Responses

  1. Kent,

    I have a lot of sugarberry (southern hackberry) on my property. It isn’t an interesting wood on its own, but it spalts very easily. I have several logs spalting at the moment and lots of blanks cut. It was a nice surprise when I discovered the first spalted sugarberry on my place.


    1. Kent,
      Excellent. Yes, spalt is a great way to take an ordinary wood and make it more interesting.
      Thank you for writing and sharing!
      Happy Turning!

  2. Another tip for turning spalted wood is, after cutting with standard gouges or carbide cutters, to finish-scraping with grinds of 35°. I have a separate set of straight and curved scrapers kept ground at this optimum angle. I wrap each ferrule with colored tape to identify this set. Much better result on spalted wood than steeper-angle grinds.

    1. Very interesting. I will check out this angle on spalt. Thank you for writing and sharing!

  3. Big-leaf maple is a common local wood here in western WA, and it spalts (too) easily. All 3 of the classic spalting characters described in Dr Robinson’s book are typically evident: zone-lines, white-rot, and colors (often yellow or pale green/blue).
    ►When selecting a piece to turn, timing is Everything. All too often the white-rot has progressed too far and sizable sections are punky and crumbly, which prevents clean cuts. Not usable for turning! Ideally the progression of spalting can be discovered after the zone-lines (often black) have developed but before white-rot is widespread: the optimum state for turning.
    ►Other species of fruit woods spalt slower and are inherently more dense and stronger, which enables clean turning of heavily spalted apple, pear, plum and sometimes cherry woods. Careful use of cyanoacrylate glue with powdery sawdust can be used to strengthen small cracks or divots.

    1. Matt,

      Fantastic info. Thank you for writing and sharing!

      All the best to you and Happy Turning!

  4. I have been turning spalted maple for some time and your video and article on end grain tear out were very helpful. I have used water based lacquer to stabilize the wood but I am now trying a thin Shellac on a piece. The problem I am having is when I san the black lines spread into the other wood and make it a grey colour. Have you had this problem or do you shellac before sanding?

    1. Alex,
      For sealing endgrain I recommend a sealer or a flexible latex paint that will stay on top of the wood and stretch as the wood moves. Anchorseal in one of the better products out there.
      Happy Turning!

  5. Kent, been watching for a very long time. My question concerning Spalted wood is: I am finding when I turn it, especially around the tenon, it tears off very easy, and then my piece goes flying off of the lathe. It rips apart. Does this mean the wood is too far gone to turn? If not, what can I do to ensure the tenant does not come apart?

    1. Jim,
      It might be too far gone. But before you give up, cut the tenon and soak it with some super thin CA. Let it dry and then crisp up the tenon in case some glue builds up. That has worked well for me in the past.

      All the best to you and Happy Turning!

  6. I think I will now try to encourage spalting in some oak blocks I have. Thanks for the tips.

    I have used Cactus juice vacuum impregnated on beech blanks that were so spalted
    the wood crumbled when turned. Not cheap but the bowls took on a fine polish.

  7. As always, great info.

    You mention about setting logs on end on the ground to encourage spalting. I have a stump in my back yard that is about 30 inches tall. Could spalt grow in this condition or does the stump need to be removed from the roots to have that work?

    Many thanks,

    1. Mark,

      Great question. Being in full contact with the earth there is good chance the wood will rot before you see any spalt. I’d recommend digging it out and cutting it into blank shapes first.

      Happy Turning!

  8. I now more than I did when I got up today… Well written and informative. I’m currently turning my first Spalted Maple…

    Thank you…

    1. Thank you, Jeff! Glad you like this and have fun with that spalted maple!!! Happy Turning!

    1. Good question. Yes, if the wood is freshly cut and you seal the end-grain the spalt will be slow to form or not form at all.

  9. I find your information generally very sound and useful. Working with spalted ambrosia maple recently, the wood declined significantly, so much of the endgrain was punky and hard to get a smooth surface. What do you recommend doing, other than burn or discard, to return the punkinness back to something more vital and able to get a smoother surface? Thanks

    1. Try using some thin shellac to stiffen the punky area and make very light cuts with a sharp gouge. Happy Turning!

  10. Excellent information about spalted wood! Your videos are terrific also. Thank you for all the information.

  11. Hi, thanks for this article, I learned a lot! I did turn a bowl in spalted beech and my son actually uses it to eat. It’s very nice but I noticed it’s changing over time, there are some black stains on the white rot parts now. Maybe the wood got too porous in these areas because of the fungi action and retains moisture ?

    1. I’m not sure what might be happening. Also, remember all wood darkens as it ages, so there could be some natural changes happening too. I would clean the bowl well, allow it to dry, and apply an oil-based finish and let that cure for a week or so.

    2. Do you have any other pay plan other than PayPal? I am interested in the sharping e course, but don’t like PayPal.

      1. Rick,
        I’m sorry, at this time I do not. You can use a regular credit or debit card through this system if you’d like.
        Thank you,

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Search Here
Kent Weakley-Turn A Wood Bowl-About
Hi, I’m Kent

Hi! I’m Kent, a husband, dad, papa, graphic designer, photographer, artist, traveler, birder, dark chocolate lover and I’m addicted to turning wood bowls! Learn more about me, see the online courses I made for you, and join our group on Facebook. Ready for your wood bowl adventure? Click here to Get Started

Turn A Wood Bowl is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to