Bowl Gouge Sharpening Techniques Step by Step

Bowl Gouge Sharpening Techniques main Image

Bowl gouge sharpening techniques are really the first thing that needs to be learned when turning wood bowls. Why? Because without a sharp bowl gouge turning wood bowls is not easy.

As the saying goes, “An almost sharp bowl gouge will almost cut wood.”

Another reason bowl gouge sharpening techniques need to come first is, depending on the cuts and type of wood, the bowl gouge will only stay sharp for so long.

I had an opportunity to see this play out first hand. My brother, who lives about a thousand miles away, had just acquired a small bench lathe but had no tools. He wanted to turn some bowls.

When we went to visit him, I threw a couple of my gouges in the car to bring along. Long story short, we got one small bowl made before the gouges were too dull to continue. Without a sharpening system, we could go no further.

Being fortunate enough to do my initial wood turnings at weekly group gatherings, I started without any equipment. As I learned the importance of a sharp bowl gouge, my equipment acquisition order was easy to determine.

My bowl gouge sharpening system was the first piece of equipment I put into place in my shop. I did this even before I owned my first bowl gouge.

How It Works

When we sharpen a bowl gouge, we are not doing anything other than restoring a sharp cutting edge to the bowl gouge. Over time, that sharp edge gets dull as we turn.

The area of the bowl gouge that needs attention is the bevel. The bevel is the flat area that wraps around the front and sides under the sharp cutting edge.

When we employ the bowl gouge sharpening techniques, we are smoothing and leveling the surface of the bevel. At the same time, this action restores a sharp, crisp edge between the bevel top and the bowl gouge flute.

The corner where the bevel top and flute edge meet is the business end or cutting edge of the bowl gouge.

Bowl Gouge Parts Identified

Bowl Gouge Abuse

While turning a bowl, it’s easy just to forget the stress on the bowl gouge. However, let’s look at this from a different perspective.

What if instead of working a nice compact round of timber, the bowl gouge was drug across a long continuous surface? Imagine, sitting on the tailgate of a truck going down the highway and holding the bowl gouge tip against the road.

Depending on the size of the bowl blank and the time spent cutting, your bowl gouge actually accumulates MILES of cutting time. Too bad there’s not a frequent flyer program for bowl gouge miles turned.

If you’re good at math, you can pretty quickly run some numbers. The circumference of an 8” bowl blank is 25.12”. If the lathe is turning around 800 r.p.m., the bowl gouge will travel a full MILE about every three minutes.

Bowl Gouge Sharpening Techniques Gouge Wear Calculation
Bowl Gouge Sharpening Techniques Gouge Wear Calculation

That’s an amazing amount of cutting and performance from a piece of steel. It gives me a new respect for the durability and performance of the bowl gouge.

When To Sharpen

There are several indicators that a bowl gouge needs sharpening. Some of these indicators include; time, temperature, and results.

When the gouge dulls, performance also reduces, friction will increase. One sign of a dulling bowl gouge tip is heat. If the tip or end of the tool feels warm or hot, it’s time to practice your bowl gouge sharpening techniques.

Tool Sharpening for Wood Bowl Turning eCourse

Another great indicator of a worn down cutting tip is performance. Yes, performance problems effect bowl gouges too.

The quickest way to tell is if the bowl gouge produces chips or dust instead of longer shavings. Keep in mind some woods don’t make nice curly shavings, but in general dust and chips are a good indicator of the need to sharpen.

Bowl gouge Sharpening Techniques Curly Shavings Good Dust Chips Sharpen
Curly Shavings Good – Dust Chips Gouge Needs Sharpening

And the third best way to know its time to sharpen your bowl gouge is your memory. Can you remember when you sharpened last? If you can’t remember when you last sharpened, it is now probably time to sharpen or past time to sharpen.

Always remember this wood turners joke, or perhaps a truth. “If you think your gouge needs sharpening, you should have done it ten minutes ago.” In other words, keep on top of your bowl gouge and sharpen frequently.

If you are experiencing heat, poor results or if you can’t remember, it’s time to sharpen.

101 WoodBowl Turning Tips Display

What Angle To Sharpen

When we go to the grinding station to sharpen this is not the time to reshape or change the angle of the bowl gouge. So, for now the cutting angle of the bowl gouge will be the same as it currently appears.

Changing and adjusting bowl gouge sharpening angles is covered thoroughly in another article, be sure to check that out.

I do encourage experimenting with different bowl gouge grinds and angles, but that is a much broader topic covered in other articles. Here, we will focus on our bowl gouge sharpening techniques.

Setting the Wolverine VariGrind Jig

Depending on the bevel angle and length of the bevel side wings, you will need to adjust the Wolverine VariGrind Jig accordingly.

Essentially, the angle of the leg sticking out from the bowl gouge holder adjusts the amount of side wings created while grinding jig extension arm position adjusts the front bevel angle.

We will be making adjustments that match your bowl gouge’s current front bevel angle in step five below. The front bowl gouge bevel dictates the distance the jig is from the sharpening wheel.

The thumb screw on the jig controls the side profile or side-wings of the bowl gouge. This angle can be adjusted to create shorter wings or longer swept back wings.

I sharpen my bowl gouges with long swept back wing profiles. The swept back angle gives me more cutting surface to remove more material quickly. I can also flip the tool over and use those wings for shear scraping cuts to smooth a bowl surface.

Learn to perfect the shear scraping cut and your bowls will improve dramatically.

Swept back wing is my preference. Your bowl gouge may have a completely different grind, and profile and that is fine. We are here to understand bowl gouge sharpening techniques, regardless of angle or profile.

bowl gouge sharpening techniques swept back wing grind

Sharpening Consistency

The ultimate goal of sharpening is to maintain a continuously smooth and sharp cutting edge consistently. Each time we go to the sharpening wheel we want to be consistent.

To achieve consistency, I strongly suggest using a sharpening jig. I use the Oneway Sharpening System with the Wolverine VariGrind jig to maintain consistent sharpening angles at the wheel every time. See my Recommended Sharpening Equipment guide for further details.

Yes, it is possible to sharpen by hand at the grinding wheel. However, this takes a lot of practice and skill. I admire those people that can hand sharpen efficiently and consistently.

Because only a small amount of bowl gouge metal needs to be removed to restore a sharp edge, I don’t want to risk slipping and necessitating additional grinding. The more you grind, the sooner the bowl gouge is reduced to a stub.

Using the grinding jig is simple, quick, and very efficient. When done correctly and frequently, sharpening with a jig only takes a few seconds and is accurate every time.

The results from using a sharpening jig are consistent and repeatable. These are the two main key factors that make the bowl gouge ready to turn efficiently every time.

Here is my complete guide for setting up and using the Wolverine Vari-Grind Jig for consistent bowl gouge sharpening results.

Bowl Gouge Sharpening Techniques

Here are the bowl gouge sharpening techniques step-by-step. Keep in mind these steps incorporate the Oneway sharpening system to produce consistent and repeatable results each time.

1) Position the bowl gouge in the jig with the pointed leg of the jig facing backward and down. Tighten the thumbscrew until it is snug against the flute of the bowl gouge.

2) Using a depth gauge jig, Set the exact length of bowl gouge extension from the jig and tighten the thumbscrew completely.

DIY Bowl Gouge Depth Gauge Design Plans Block

3) With the grinder off, loosen and adjust the sliding jig holder extension.

4) Place the leg of the bowl gouge jig into the extension arm end holder.

5) Slide the extension arm in or out to position the front center bevel of the gouge flush with the surface of the grinding wheel. Tighten the extension arm lever.

Bowl Gouge Sharpening Techniques Bevel Flush to Wheel

6) Take a marker and color the surface of the bowl gouge bevel.

Bowl Gouge Sharpening Techniques Marking Bevel Surface

7) With the bowl gouge held out of the way, turn on the grinder and let it get up to speed. Once up to speed, make light contact with the bevel area that is colored.

8) If the colored area appears to have an even stripe ground through from the top to the bottom of the bevel, all is ready to continue to step 10. If, the strip is only partially across the bevel continue to step 9.

Bowl Gouge Sharpening Techniques Flush Contact

9) If the top edge of the bevel is ground but not the bottom, loosen the extension arm and move it inward a very small amount, just a hair. Lock the extension arm and make another slight contact with the wheel, go to step 8. If the bottom edge of the bevel is ground but not the top, loosen the extension arm and move it outward a very small amount, just a touch. Lock the extension arm and make another slight contact with the wheel, go to step 8.

Bowl Gouge Sharpening Techniques Tip Only Contact
Bowl Gouge Sharpening Techniques Heel Contact Only

10) Using smooth fluid movements, roll the bowl gouge bevel across the surface of the sharpening wheel from left to right. Try to keep the sharpening area of bowl gouge in the center of the sharpening wheel on the grinder. Also, attempt to give all areas of the bevel the same amount of time against the sharpening surface.

Bowl Gouge Sharpening Techniques Sharpening Across Gouge Center
Bowl Gouge Sharpening Techniques Left Side Rotation

11) After only a few seconds of moving the bowl gouge bevel across the sharpening wheel, remove the gouge and closely inspect the bevel and cutting edge. If a smooth, shiny bevel appears from heel to cutting edge all the way around, you have a shape edge. If you see any rough spots or interruptions in the bevel smoothness return to step 10 and repeat until the bevel is smooth in all locations.

Bowl Gouge Sharpening Techniques Sharpening Steps

To learn more about the Wolverine Vari-Grind Sharpening Jig and how to set it for your specific needs, read this article.

Be Precisely Precise

The most critical aspect of bowl gouge sharpening techniques is to be consistent and precise. Our bowl gouge is a highly effective tool vital to the whole bowl turning process. We need to treat the bowl gouge accordingly.

Each time we go to the sharpening wheel we need to make sure the bevel is exactly flush with the wheel. Even being off a hair will cause issues eventually.

Think about this for a second. If your sharpening angle changes a quarter of one degree, barely noticeable, each time you sharpen it will add up. Do that four times, and your bevel cutting angle will change a full degree. Do that forty times and, now your bevel angle is TEN FULL DEGREES different from where it started.

Take your time, use the marker on the bevel trick to confirm the bowl gouge is indeed flush with the grinding wheel each time. This simple step is worth the effort.

The time you take being precise while sharpening will pay off in a couple of ways. Your bowl gouge bevel angle will be consistent and you will remove less metal making your gouge last longer.

Just Enough

Sharpening is not grinding; we are here only to sharpen. Using the bowl gouge sharpening techniques, each time at the grinder you should just be removing a thin amount of material from the bevel of your gouge.

If you find yourself needing to spend a long time sharpening and making the bowl gouge bevel smooth again, you may need to sharpen more frequently. Stop more often and sharpen less is better than waiting and needing to sharpen a very worn gouge.

Ideally, each approach to the grinder should take a couple passes across the bowl gouge bevel surface and only require a few seconds of time. As soon as the bevel is shiny, flat and even, the gouge is sharp.

Steel Coloring

The coloring of the metal at the tip of the bowl gouge might occur if you’re sharpening too long, with too much pressure or both. We do not want color to appear on the steel of our bowl gouge.

Colored metal indicates that the gouge shank is overheating and that causes stress within the gouge. Colored areas need to be removed and this requires slow patient grinding, not necessarily sharpening.

If you feel the heat, preferably before you see any brown or blue start to appear at the sharpening tip of your gouge, stop sharpening. Let the gouge cool a bit. Go sweep shavings or take a break because your gouge too needs a break.

Quenching Hot Metal

You can cool the bowl gouge by dipping it in water to quench it while sharpening. However, and this is important, DO NOT quench or cool the gouge if it colors or overheats.

I had to get an explanation about quenching directly from a bowl gouge manufacturer in England to confirm. Here’s what I learned.

Like so many things in this wonderful world of woodturning, there are opinions, ideas, and facts. And usually, those three don’t always mix or play well together.

Previously among other turners, I was told, “Yes you can quench high-speed steel (and cryogenic steel) in water while sharpening.” Only later to be told quite emphatically by others, “NO! Do not quench gouges while sharpening. You will weaken the metal.”

So, which is it, Yes or No?

The answer is both. Of course, the answer is both! I love all the variables in woodturning! Ha!

Here’s how it works. You can quench and cool the metal as you sharpen if the metal does not get excessively overheated and/or discolor. It is safe structurally for the metal temperature to be reduced with water if the temperature is within reason. Quenching needs to happen frequently and which keeps the metal temperature within a narrow range that doesn’t get overly hot.

On the other hand, cooling a bowl gouge that is overheating and discolored will result in too great and dramatic of a temperature shift which can damage the internal structure of the steel. Dramatic heat shifts in the steel can cause the tip of the bowl gouge to chip, shatter, or break potentially.

The best way to avoid all this is to sharpen nice and slow and easy. Make quick light sharpening passes on the grinding wheel letting the wheel do the work, never press hard into the grinding wheel. Then there is no reason to stress about the metal stress in your bowl gouge.

Bowl Gouge Sharpening Techniques How To guide


At first, bowl gouge sharpening techniques may seem daunting and headache inducing. After a few times at the grinding wheel, the entire process eases and the bowl gouge sharpening techniques become old habit.

Take your time, sharpen frequently and with precision and your finely tuned bowl gouge will reward you with beautiful wood bowls time and time again.

Other article on sharpening to help you out include:

Happy Turning,

23 Responses

  1. After much research and watching many boring U-tube videos, this is by far the BEST explanation of many of the challenges a new turner has. I have ALL of Kent’s training courses., and watch all his videos, as a trainer – he is the BEST.

  2. Thanks for tips. I have to add quote from Leonard Lee, author of The Complete Guide to Sharpening (1995), “I have come to the conclusion that most good turners achieve their results by overwhelming their tools with tremendous innate skill. Unfortunately, many of these same turners who have developed specific technologies to overcome tool-shape inadequacies then go on to recommend these techniques to novice turners, when the novice should be learning good shaping & honing techniques instead….I do not want to put myself in the same position as some of the turning authors who make very categorical statements about sharpening technique even when they have limited understanding of metallurgy or abrasives.”
    In his chapter re Turning Tools, he goes on to emphasize how to properly burnish or hone a freshly ground tool, select a grinding wheel depending on type of tool steel, construct a jig for grinding gouges, and describes the Glaser joystick, precursor to the Vari-Grind jig.

    1. Best description of setting up the Wolverine sharpening guide I have been able to find. Excellent articles.

  3. I’ve been turning with carbide tools for 1.5 yrs and recently picked up a set of traditional turning tools at a garage sale. None have a noticeable angle like yours. Can I make any gouge look like yours or do I need to start with a specific type and dial it in?

  4. Greetings,

    Enjoy your website as a beginner in wood turning.

    Unfortunately I find that the pictures are missing from many of the articles. I’ve tried three browsers to get them and all fail. I just see the text and the area where the pictures should be are just blank screen so I think they are missing.

    Any sugestions?

    Charlie Montgomery

    1. Charlie,

      Thanks for letting me know. I’ve checked and everything seems to be displaying.

      Have you tried restarting your computer? I know that has worked for me in the past.

      All the best to you and Happy Turning!

  5. Kent, first you inspired me to get and use a bowl gouge (instead of using my spindle gouges) for bowl turning. I thank you for that – it’s a lot easier and more fun, not to mention safer. Of course, that gouge (a really good one, BTW, a cryogenic 1/2″ flute with a swept back fingernail grind) eventually got dull. Actually, it got dull pretty quickly while working on a hard Maple bowl block. After struggling to keep it sharp without a jig or even a grinder I set the turning project aside.

    A few days ago my new slow speed grinder and OneWay Wolverine sharpening set-up. It took me about an hour to assemble everything, build a grinding platform and double-check it. Following your video demonstrations I was able to very quickly tune up the gouge profile and get it sharp. Resuming the project was a pleasure and has gone smoothly since. Any time I’ve even suspected the gouge should be re-sharpened I’ve done so.

    I still have a long way to go with my skills. Your guidance has probably cut months off my learning curve, and may well have kept me from quitting altogether out of frustration. Thank you!

    1. Dave,
      Wow! Thank you for writing!

      I’m so excited for you. I can only imagine how dull that hard maple must have made the gouge initially.

      Yes, a sharp tool, and knowing how to properly sharpen, makes all the difference.

      Thanks again, and all the best to you!

      Happy Turning,

  6. Kent, when you quench the tool in water, does it need to be completely dry before applying it to the wheel again?

    1. I don’t think being wet is an issue. But I usually shake off most of the water before returning to the sharpening wheel.

  7. Kent – this is an excellent article, would you mind if I publish it in my newsletter for the Northeast Florida Woodturners Association? I won’t publish it without your permission.

    1. Hello Paul,

      Thank you for your comment. I’d be honored.

      Yes, I’d appreciate you posting credit to Also, if you want to link directly to the article (or any other articles) on your clubs website, please feel free to do so.

      If your newsletter is a printed version, please send me a copy once it’s completed.

      Thank you!

      Happy Turning,

  8. You did not explain how to adjust “the angle of the leg sticking out from the bowl gouge holder to set the amount of side wings created “

    1. Steve,

      Yes, you are correct. Adjusting the Wolverine Vari-Grind Jig to create a specific bowl gouge bevel angle is a whole other topic. Stay tuned I will have an article all about this soon.

  9. I am 92 and done a lot of turning but there is always more to be learned. Sharpening surely is where most beginners and OTHERS experience problems. Most expensive tools are ruined by heating.

    1. Thanks, Ali, I agree, too much heat is a major problem. Regular cooling breaks by dipping in water are essential while shaping or sharpening. Happy Turning!

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Kent Weakley-Turn A Wood Bowl-About
Hi, I’m Kent

Hi! I’m Kent, a husband, dad, papa, graphic designer, photographer, artist, traveler, birder, dark chocolate lover and I’m addicted to turning wood bowls! Learn more about me, see the online courses I made for you, and join our group on Facebook. Ready for your wood bowl adventure? Click here to Get Started

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